Cruising in New Caledonia
New Caledonia is a favourite destination for the owners and crew of 31m M/Y Espiritu Santo. Captain Greg Palmer's guide for TheSuperyachtOwner.com gives crucial insight for yachts considering cruising the archipelago...…
New Caledonia is one of my very favorite South Pacific cruising destinations and during the 11 years I have been Captain of 31m Espiritu Santo I've enjoyed exploring the multitude of islands and anchorages around Grande Terre, the Loyalty Islands and the Isle of Pines.
Something Special
Every South Pacific cruising area has something 'special' to offer superyachts and that special quality differs from one island to the next, even within a single country. But if I stop to think about the special quality that makes New Caledonia truly different from any other Pacific destination it would have to be wilderness areas with easy and unrestricted access for large yachts.
New Caledonia abounds with opportunities for a superyacht to enjoy nature's bounty in relative privacy. Everywhere else in the Pacific, wherever you find a choice anchorage, you'll also find a village or town. This is also true for many parts of New Caledonia but the huge triangular lagoon from Passe de St. Vincent to the 'horn' (85nm) to the Canal de la Havannah (45nm) is filled with magnificent anchorages where there are no villages and you don't need to ask permission to go ashore or go diving, take photos, or catch some fish for dinner.
If you cruise more than a few hours from Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia, you are likely not to see another boat anywhere around except during holidays and long weekends. What's more, there are 30 prime anchorages only a short run (10 to 40nm) in protected, deep waters from Noumea. Beautiful anchorages close to a civilised port with fabulous marine life and powder white beaches - combined with security and privacy; now that's something special, not just for the South Pacific, but for the whole world.
On top of that, the French hydrographic office has installed excellent navigational aids and created top-notch marine charts. New Caledonia also boasts the world's most sophisticated Cruising Guide; the Rocket Nautical Guide to New Caledonia. This interactive guide works on Windows or Macintosh computers and has high resolution aerial and satellite images of every part of New Caledonia with overlays of depths, navigational aids, GPS routes, surface and even underwater images. I have enjoyed using this encyclopedia of nautical information for years (it is updated regularly) and have never seen a guide like it for any other cruising area - except the Nautical Guide to Vanuatu produced by Rocket Guides. The combination of excellent navigational aids, charts and the cruising guide make it easy to plan itineraries and to cruise safely between more than 250 anchorages.
The World Heritage New Caledonia Lagoon
New Caledonia has taken a very proactive stance in protecting and managing it's marine resources. A 1600-km long coral reef encircles the world's largest coral reef lagoon. The entire 24,000 square kilometre lagoon and barrier reef was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 and it is now is divided into management zones. Protection ranges from total exclusion in the Yves Merlet Reserve to exclusion from going ashore on some islands during the breeding season of endangered sea birds, to 32 marine reserves and parks where fishing or collecting any creatures is prohibited and visitors are required to obey regulations aimed at keeping these vibrantly alive ecosystems in their prime.
These protections mean that the owner, guests and crew can visit and enjoy pristine white sandy beaches and snorkel and dive in crystal clear water seeing coral reefs and fish populations that are long gone from other Pacific islands. And there are plenty of places where sport fishing is not only allowed but actively promoted.
From July to October whales come to New Caledonia to have their young, and our owners and guests really enjoy a day out on the lagoon watching the whales and dolphins play. Again, New Caledonia has set up regulations for yachts watching the whales so they don't disturb the creatures or run afoul of each other.
There is something very special about visiting with whales, sea turtles, dugongs, and manta rays and, in the protection of the marine parks, the owners and guests will find an abundance of marine life that they are unlikely to see anywhere else in the world.
There are also some great wilderness areas on land. The southern part of Grande Terre has extensive parks and wilderness areas with crystal clear rivers and waterfalls, marked walking and mountain bike trails that wind everywhere through exotic forests. Camp sites, both managed and trail camp sites, are located along many of the trails. You don't need permission to walk the trails and can walk all day without seeing another person, a house, or a fence. Meanwhile your yacht can be anchored in a totally protected deep lagoon with flat calm water perfect for kayaking, jet skis, or water skiing. I don't know anywhere else in the world where you can do that; especially without worrying about security issues.
A Cultural Buffet
Wilderness is wonderful and lots of fun, but services, luxuries, social activities and cultural diversity adds spice to New Caledonia's special allure. There are plenty of anchorages where you can visit historic sites, see local art, dancing, and architecture, and get to know the people of the islands. The best places to visit for these experiences include the Isle of Pines (70 nm from Noumea), and the Loyalty islands, Mare (112 nm from Noumea), Lifou (130nm from Noumea) , and Ouvea (140nm from Noumea). These each offer something different to superyachts, and there are cultural festivals from time to time that are good fun if they happen to coincide with the yacht's schedule.
All yachts need to go to Noumea, the Capital of New Caledonia, for clearance formalities. Noumea is a French cosmopolitan centre with all the perks of modern civilisation; supermarkets, shopping malls, luxury hotels, gourmet restaurants featuring French, Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, Italian and German specialties. There are museums, theatres, cinemas, casinos, night clubs, music and film festivals, and cultural nights. It's fair to say there is some cultural event happening all the time in Noumea.
New Caledonia has the best French wines, spices and cheeses and the supermarkets carry European, Australian, New Zealand and American products. The 'something special' food in New Caledonia is the fabulous prawns. These are grown in huge prawn farms along the central west coast of Grande Terre - they are big, tasty, and reasonably priced. Other New Caledonia specialties include gourmet coffee, wonderful French pastries and treats, and fabulous chocolates.
Professional Expertise
Superyachts will be pleased with the professional expertise and range of supplies and services in Noumea. I don't speak French, so having a perfectly bilingual superyacht agent really helps on a day to day basis, making it easy to deal with a great variety of tasks. I think of Chloe Morin, of Noumea Ocean Superyacht Services as my personal assistant: just mention a job and she gets it done. Normal tasks, like bunkering, are handled routinely but I have seen her organize some pretty complicated repair jobs for visiting superyachts and believe me, organizing anything complicated in a French maritime community is like herding cats. But she gets everyone working together and the job gets done correctly and on schedule.
Noumea Ocean works directly with my crew members. For example, Chloe makes it easy for our chef to stock the galley by arranging for'food baskets of fresh, organically grown vegetables delivered from the grower right to our yacht. If the yacht needs something special, be it an oversized bolt or a case of premier French wine, Chloe will have it delivered to our yacht in record time.
Location, Location, Location
New Caledonia is conveniently close to Australia and New Zealand. We can make the ocean crossing to New Caledonia in a few days and the owner and guests can fly there in a couple of hours. The Tontuta International Airport is a 45 minute drive from the Port du Sud Marina where superyachts often tie up and the domestic air transport can deliver guests and the owner to the smaller islands.
New Caledonia's location is also special in being in the tropic/temperate zone - an ocean environment that the locals refer to (with some justification) as 'springtime all year long.' The prime cruising season, from May to November, typically brings cool (17° to 22°C) southeast trade winds, clear skies, and water temperatures in the lagoon that range from 18° to 24°C.
So, that's why I love New Caledonia for superyacht cruising; springtime in wilderness with magnificent beaches, diving, marine life, fishing, protected lagoon anchorages, easy navigation, close to civilised perks and professional services.
Important Website Links:
Superyacht Agent Noumea Ocean (details on entry formalities, pilots, berthage, visas)
Cruising Guide to New Caledonia (cruising directions, weather, nautical facilities and services)
Port du Sud Marina
New Caledonia Customs
New Caledonia Tourism - https://www.office-tourisme.nc/en/
Photo Credits: Photos © CHESHER - Richard Chesher www.rocket-guides.com
Something Special
Every South Pacific cruising area has something 'special' to offer superyachts and that special quality differs from one island to the next, even within a single country. But if I stop to think about the special quality that makes New Caledonia truly different from any other Pacific destination it would have to be wilderness areas with easy and unrestricted access for large yachts.
New Caledonia abounds with opportunities for a superyacht to enjoy nature's bounty in relative privacy. Everywhere else in the Pacific, wherever you find a choice anchorage, you'll also find a village or town. This is also true for many parts of New Caledonia but the huge triangular lagoon from Passe de St. Vincent to the 'horn' (85nm) to the Canal de la Havannah (45nm) is filled with magnificent anchorages where there are no villages and you don't need to ask permission to go ashore or go diving, take photos, or catch some fish for dinner.
If you cruise more than a few hours from Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia, you are likely not to see another boat anywhere around except during holidays and long weekends. What's more, there are 30 prime anchorages only a short run (10 to 40nm) in protected, deep waters from Noumea. Beautiful anchorages close to a civilised port with fabulous marine life and powder white beaches - combined with security and privacy; now that's something special, not just for the South Pacific, but for the whole world.
On top of that, the French hydrographic office has installed excellent navigational aids and created top-notch marine charts. New Caledonia also boasts the world's most sophisticated Cruising Guide; the Rocket Nautical Guide to New Caledonia. This interactive guide works on Windows or Macintosh computers and has high resolution aerial and satellite images of every part of New Caledonia with overlays of depths, navigational aids, GPS routes, surface and even underwater images. I have enjoyed using this encyclopedia of nautical information for years (it is updated regularly) and have never seen a guide like it for any other cruising area - except the Nautical Guide to Vanuatu produced by Rocket Guides. The combination of excellent navigational aids, charts and the cruising guide make it easy to plan itineraries and to cruise safely between more than 250 anchorages.
The World Heritage New Caledonia Lagoon
New Caledonia has taken a very proactive stance in protecting and managing it's marine resources. A 1600-km long coral reef encircles the world's largest coral reef lagoon. The entire 24,000 square kilometre lagoon and barrier reef was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 and it is now is divided into management zones. Protection ranges from total exclusion in the Yves Merlet Reserve to exclusion from going ashore on some islands during the breeding season of endangered sea birds, to 32 marine reserves and parks where fishing or collecting any creatures is prohibited and visitors are required to obey regulations aimed at keeping these vibrantly alive ecosystems in their prime.
These protections mean that the owner, guests and crew can visit and enjoy pristine white sandy beaches and snorkel and dive in crystal clear water seeing coral reefs and fish populations that are long gone from other Pacific islands. And there are plenty of places where sport fishing is not only allowed but actively promoted.
From July to October whales come to New Caledonia to have their young, and our owners and guests really enjoy a day out on the lagoon watching the whales and dolphins play. Again, New Caledonia has set up regulations for yachts watching the whales so they don't disturb the creatures or run afoul of each other.
There is something very special about visiting with whales, sea turtles, dugongs, and manta rays and, in the protection of the marine parks, the owners and guests will find an abundance of marine life that they are unlikely to see anywhere else in the world.
There are also some great wilderness areas on land. The southern part of Grande Terre has extensive parks and wilderness areas with crystal clear rivers and waterfalls, marked walking and mountain bike trails that wind everywhere through exotic forests. Camp sites, both managed and trail camp sites, are located along many of the trails. You don't need permission to walk the trails and can walk all day without seeing another person, a house, or a fence. Meanwhile your yacht can be anchored in a totally protected deep lagoon with flat calm water perfect for kayaking, jet skis, or water skiing. I don't know anywhere else in the world where you can do that; especially without worrying about security issues.
A Cultural Buffet
Wilderness is wonderful and lots of fun, but services, luxuries, social activities and cultural diversity adds spice to New Caledonia's special allure. There are plenty of anchorages where you can visit historic sites, see local art, dancing, and architecture, and get to know the people of the islands. The best places to visit for these experiences include the Isle of Pines (70 nm from Noumea), and the Loyalty islands, Mare (112 nm from Noumea), Lifou (130nm from Noumea) , and Ouvea (140nm from Noumea). These each offer something different to superyachts, and there are cultural festivals from time to time that are good fun if they happen to coincide with the yacht's schedule.
All yachts need to go to Noumea, the Capital of New Caledonia, for clearance formalities. Noumea is a French cosmopolitan centre with all the perks of modern civilisation; supermarkets, shopping malls, luxury hotels, gourmet restaurants featuring French, Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese, Italian and German specialties. There are museums, theatres, cinemas, casinos, night clubs, music and film festivals, and cultural nights. It's fair to say there is some cultural event happening all the time in Noumea.
New Caledonia has the best French wines, spices and cheeses and the supermarkets carry European, Australian, New Zealand and American products. The 'something special' food in New Caledonia is the fabulous prawns. These are grown in huge prawn farms along the central west coast of Grande Terre - they are big, tasty, and reasonably priced. Other New Caledonia specialties include gourmet coffee, wonderful French pastries and treats, and fabulous chocolates.
Professional Expertise
Superyachts will be pleased with the professional expertise and range of supplies and services in Noumea. I don't speak French, so having a perfectly bilingual superyacht agent really helps on a day to day basis, making it easy to deal with a great variety of tasks. I think of Chloe Morin, of Noumea Ocean Superyacht Services as my personal assistant: just mention a job and she gets it done. Normal tasks, like bunkering, are handled routinely but I have seen her organize some pretty complicated repair jobs for visiting superyachts and believe me, organizing anything complicated in a French maritime community is like herding cats. But she gets everyone working together and the job gets done correctly and on schedule.
Noumea Ocean works directly with my crew members. For example, Chloe makes it easy for our chef to stock the galley by arranging for'food baskets of fresh, organically grown vegetables delivered from the grower right to our yacht. If the yacht needs something special, be it an oversized bolt or a case of premier French wine, Chloe will have it delivered to our yacht in record time.
Location, Location, Location
New Caledonia is conveniently close to Australia and New Zealand. We can make the ocean crossing to New Caledonia in a few days and the owner and guests can fly there in a couple of hours. The Tontuta International Airport is a 45 minute drive from the Port du Sud Marina where superyachts often tie up and the domestic air transport can deliver guests and the owner to the smaller islands.
New Caledonia's location is also special in being in the tropic/temperate zone - an ocean environment that the locals refer to (with some justification) as 'springtime all year long.' The prime cruising season, from May to November, typically brings cool (17° to 22°C) southeast trade winds, clear skies, and water temperatures in the lagoon that range from 18° to 24°C.
Captain Greg Palmer
So, that's why I love New Caledonia for superyacht cruising; springtime in wilderness with magnificent beaches, diving, marine life, fishing, protected lagoon anchorages, easy navigation, close to civilised perks and professional services.
Important Website Links:
Superyacht Agent Noumea Ocean (details on entry formalities, pilots, berthage, visas)
Cruising Guide to New Caledonia (cruising directions, weather, nautical facilities and services)
Port du Sud Marina
New Caledonia Customs
New Caledonia Tourism - https://www.office-tourisme.nc/en/
Photo Credits: Photos © CHESHER - Richard Chesher www.rocket-guides.com
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